HOW
DOES AGEING OCCUR?
Sun exposure
The skin ages when it is hit by UV rays.These rays release their energy into the skin, producing very harmful “free radicals”. This oxidation alters the skin’s cells and fibres. Cigarette smoke, alcohol and pollution are also aggravating factors. With age, the collagen fibres undergo glycation (action of sugars on proteins), making them rigid. In women, the menopause also speeds up the ageing process.
Oxidative stress weakens the cells
Oxidative stress can weaken the cells. Our environment, pollution, solar radiation and cigarette smoke generate free radicals in the skin which can be destructive with varying degrees of severity. Proteins (collagen, elastane), cellular membrane lipids and DNA can be damaged causing disorders that can range from premature ageing to cancer. We therefore need to protect ourselves against them.
WHAT ADVICE DO YOU GIVE
YOUR PATIENTS?
Prevention is important: I advise them to moderate their sun exposure.
I recommend they use a broad-spectrum sun screen on their face like Anthelios, which protects the skin against UVAs. I talk about the benefits of stopping smoking. I encourage them to eat a healthy diet, rich in fruits and vegetables, to help fight free radicals. This advice is even more effective when followed before the first visible signs of ageing appear.
WHAT COSMETICS
DO YOU RECOMMEND?
Daily moisturization of the skin is essential.
Depending on skin type and age, I recommend creams that contain antioxidant active ingredients that fight free radicals. They contain fruit acids, vitamin C or retinol. There are also creams that fight glycation to delay ageing. For women who are often outside, I recommend they use a day cream with a sunscreen from spring onwards.
Avoiding oxidative stress thanks to antioxidant
The application of antioxidant and/or antiradical products on the skin may be recommended. These antioxidants and antiradicals are either molecular (e.g. vitamin C, vitamin E, polyphenols, etc.) or enzymatic (SOD, GPx.SH, Catalase, etc.) or in the form of trace elements (selenium, copper, zinc, etc.). Solar radiation – particularly UVAs – received daily play a major role in the ageing process, particularly in the production of free radicals. Daily treatments integrating a sunscreen are therefore strongly recommended.